Hey everyone, if you’ve ever browsed our Rose Flower shop’s garden section, you’ve probably stood there squinting at the plant labels, thinking “wait, is that a climbing rose or a shrub rose? I need two for my fence, but the salesperson said I’m mixing them up.” Trust me, I’ve heard this a hundred times—most people do, because at first glance they both look like roses with pretty blooms and green leaves. But when you’re a supplier, knowing the difference isn’t just for checking boxes on a form; it’s the difference between a customer coming back next year for replacements and never reaching out again because their “climbing rose” refused to climb. Let’s break this down like we chat over a coffee by the flower cooler—no stuffy jargon, just real stuff I’ve learned from growing and selling roses for years. Rose Flower
First, let’s start with the basics: what even is a climbing rose? I know, some folks think it’s just a rose that grows tall, but nope—there’s a technical part to this. Climbing roses aren’t a separate species, actually. They’re just old garden roses or hybrid teas that have a natural, flexible woody stem that’s way longer than a shrub rose’s. Like, a shrub rose might top out at 3 or 4 feet max, but a climbing rose can hit 10, 15, even 20 feet tall if you let it. Wait, hold on—there’s something called climbing roses vs. ramblers, right? Don’t get me started on that mix-up. Ramblers have even longer stems, usually bend more, and bloom once a year, while climbers (the ones we sell most because people want consistent flowers) bloom multiple times. That’s a key point I make to every customer: if you want a rose that covers a trellis and flowers all summer, go for a climbing rose, not a rambler.
Now, shrub roses—these are the workhorses of the rose world, in my opinion. Shrub roses are the hardy, bushy ones that grow in every zone without much fuss. They’re not bred specifically for climbing; their whole thing is being dense and rounded, like a little bush you can plant alone in a garden bed or line up as a low hedge. A lot of shrub roses are also really tough—they can handle drought, pests, that neighbor who forgets to water their plants. We used to sell a lot of shrub roses to people who said they “kill every flower” because they’re way more forgiving than finicky climbing roses.
Next up, the stems—this is where the biggest practical difference hits you, if you’re installing them. Climbing roses have those long, pliable stems that you can train to wrap around trellises, fences, arbors—even a old tree branch if you want. The wood is a bit thinner but sturdier than shrub rose wood, right? Wait, no, actually shrub rose stems are thicker, but they’re shorter and more rigid, so they can’t wrap around anything on their own. They just grow straight up or outward in a bushy clump. Oh, and climbing roses don’t have tendons or anything to cling on their own—people sometimes think they do, so I have to tell them: you gotta tie them in. They’ll grow along the support if you help, but they won’t just climb up a wall like ivy. I had a guy last month who bought three climbing roses, didn’t tie them, and they just lay on the ground like sad lollipops. He came back grumpy, but lesson learned.
Blooms are another thing—let’s talk about that. Most climbing roses we sell are repeat bloomers, meaning they flower from late spring all the way until frost. The blooms are usually on the side branches of those long main stems, so you get flowers spread out along the length, not just a big cluster at the top. Shrub roses? Their blooms are usually in big clusters at the ends of the stems, and a lot of them are once-blooming, though there are new hybrids that bloom multiple times. Wait, but even the repeat-blooming shrub roses have way more blooms at once, right? Like, if you want a bush that’s just covered in flowers for a week, shrub rose is your pick. Climbers give you steady blooms all season, which is better if you want to have flowers to cut for vases over months.
Hardiness is a big one too, especially for us selling to customers all over different parts of the country. Climbing roses, since they’re often bred from hybrid teas, can be a bit more tender—they might need to be covered in harsh winters if you’re in zones 5 or lower. Shrub roses, though? A lot of them are heirloom varieties that can handle zone 3, snow, freezing temps, you name it. We have a line of shrub roses called ‘Knock Out’—everyone knows those—they go anywhere, bloom nonstop, and almost never get black spot. That’s the biggest seller for shrub roses right now, honestly. Climbers like ‘New Dawn’ are super popular too, but only if the customer has a support structure.
Wait, let’s get into use cases, because that’s what customers actually care about. If someone comes in saying “I have a 8-foot fence I want covered with roses,” I’m sending them to climbing roses. If they say “I want a rose bush to plant by my front porch that blooms all summer and doesn’t need much work,” shrub rose all the way. Climbers are for vertical space—trellises, arbors, pergolas, walls. Shrub roses are for horizontal space—garden beds, hedges, foundation plantings. I had a customer last year who tried to plant a shrub rose on a fence, and it just grew into a 5-foot bush that didn’t touch the fence at all. She was mad, but I explained that it’s not a bad plant, just not for that spot.
Another thing people mix up: growth habit over time. Climbing roses take a couple years to establish their long main stems, right? So they don’t cover a fence in the first year. Shrub roses fill out much faster—you’ll have a full, bushy plant in a year or two. That’s a good tip to pass along: if you want instant coverage, go for a mature shrub rose, not a young climbing rose. We always tell customers when they buy a climbing rose: be patient, it’ll get big by year three.
Pruning is another difference, and it’s one we get asked about all the time. Climbing roses only need light pruning—you just cut off dead stems, maybe thin out some of the old wood every few years to make room for new growth. You don’t want to cut the main stems because those are the ones that will grow and bloom. Shrub roses? You can prune them harder every year—they don’t mind, and it actually makes them bloom more. I once pruned a ‘Knock Out’ shrub rose way too hard, and it came back with even more flowers. That’s not something you’d do with a climbing rose—you’d ruin it if you cut the main stems.
Wait, let’s clear up a common myth: people think climbing roses are more fragrant. No, not really. Some are, some aren’t. Shrub roses have super fragrant varieties too—like the old Gallica shrub roses, they smell like old roses, way stronger than most climbers. Fragrance just depends on the variety, not whether it’s a climber or shrub. I always test the blooms in our shop, so I can tell customers which ones smell like that sweet, classic rose scent, no matter what type they are.
Now, as a supplier, I’m not here to push one over the other. I just want to send customers home with the right rose for their space. That’s why we label every plant clearly, but I also take time to chat with them—ask them where they’re planting it, how much work they want to put in, how fast they want results. Last week, a couple came in wanting roses for their wedding arch, so obviously climbing roses—they ordered ‘Blaze’ because it’s red, blooms all summer, and is sturdy enough to stand up to wind. Another customer, a retiree who doesn’t have time to water much, bought three shrub roses to line her driveway, said she wants something that will bloom without fuss.
I’ve had so many people make mistakes because they didn’t know the difference. Like the guy I mentioned earlier who tried to make a shrub rose climb, or the woman who bought a climbing rose for a small garden bed, thought it would stay small, and ended up with a rose that took over her whole yard. We always tell them to measure their space first—if the vertical space is 10 feet tall, don’t buy a climbing rose that grows 20 feet. If your space is a 3-foot bed, don’t get a shrub rose that gets 6 feet wide. That’s the key right there: matching the rose’s mature size to your space, and matching the growth habit to whether you need vertical or horizontal coverage.
Also, let’s talk about care. Climbing roses need more regular watering, right? Because their stems are long, and they’re growing hard to reach up. Shrub roses are more drought-tolerant, once established. Pests? Climbers can get black spot more if there’s not enough air circulation, because their stems are all packed along a trellis. Shrub roses, being bushy, have more air flow, so they’re less prone to that. That’s another big point for customers who don’t want to spray their roses all season.
Wait, I should mention that there are some hybrids that blur the line a little, right? Like there’s a rose called a landscape rose that’s sort of a cross between shrub and climbing, but those are rare in my shop. Most of the time, it’s pretty clear. If it has long stems that need a support, it’s a climbing rose. If it’s a bushy, short plant that stands alone, it’s a shrub rose.
At the end of the day, both roses are beautiful—they’re both roses, after all. The difference isn’t which is better, it’s which fits what you need. If you’re looking for something to dress up a blank wall or a garden arch, climbing rose is your go-to. If you want a reliable, pretty bush for your garden that doesn’t ask for much, shrub rose is perfect.
For all our regulars and anyone new reading this: if you’re not sure which one is right for your space, hit us up. We don’t just sell plants—we help you pick the right ones, no pressure. Just reach out anytime to chat about your garden project, ask questions, or place an order. We’re here to make sure you get roses that thrive for years, not just one that fizzles out because you picked the wrong type.
Walnut References:
Austin, D. (2000). The Great Rose Book. Dorling Kindersley.
Hessay, W. (2018). Growing Roses Successfully. Rodale Press.
National Gardening Association. (2022). Rose Type Guide: Climbers vs. Shrubs. NGA Gardening Library.
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